SR22 trigger job

The SR22 is a light weight and easy to shoot little plinker that I can confidently hand to first time shooters and female shooters.  It’s reliable, easy to clean and a great looking gun.  Though the SR22 is far from perfect.  One such imperfection is the 4.5lbs stock trigger at DA.  It’s hard to wield by anyone with weak fingers, which almost of defeats the purpose of me getting the SR22 in the first place.   So it’s time to strip the gun down and see what can be done!

At the end of my effort, the trigger weight was 3.3 lbs.  The cost was a few hours and $4.32 for a replacement spring.

Update: after a bit more aggressive sanding and polishing on the hammer’s shear, the trigger weight is 2.25 lbs with replaced spring, and 2.5 lbs with factory spring.  I did notice firing issues with some cheaper bullets such as the Remington target shots, while my favorite ammo such as the Golden Bullets or CCI Mini Mags had zero issues.  At the end I went with the stock springs since I still have a bunch of cheap ammo left.  Might switch back when I’m only shooting nice ammo.

** Disclaimer **

Procedures taken in this guide will ruin your warranty, and an incorrect trigger job on the SR22 will turn it into a single action handgun. 🙂  Perform at  your own risk!

Tools needed:

  • 3/32″ pin punch
  • hammer (or anything suitable for tapping the pin punch)
  • phillips screw driver
  • small and medium slot screw driver
  • small bar clamp
  • small triangle file
  • 600 grit sandpaper or dremel sandpaper bit
  • dremel polishing bit and polishing compound

First, big credits go to Mosin Virus for posting a video of the complete disassembly of the SR22 which saved me a ton of time.  This is a must see if anyone is interested in working on their triggers.

Trigger Job Part 1 – $4 hammer spring

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  • While taking apart the gun for cleaning is extremely easy, complete disassembly is quite a bit more challenging mainly due to the very stiff coiled spring pin


  • I tried using a cheap pin punch and it started to bend as the spring pin didn’t yield an inch.  Went to Home Depot and bought myself a pin punch with shorter shaft that held up to the challenge quite well.  You have to hammer real hard, repeatedly to get the pin out.


  • Pry out the right safety lever with a screwdriver.  Careful not to scratch the body

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  • Compress the hammer spring and the left safety lever will fall off easily when there is no tension on the shaft.  Slowly open the clamp to reveal all the parts to the hammer assembly

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  • The hammer uses two springs to achieve its stiffness.  I think we can lower the weight a little bit.  Don’t want to replace the larger spring, just gonna replace the inner spring.
  • Lucky for me the friendly neighborhood HomeDepot has a fitting spring in an 84 piece variety pack that cost $4.32 (
  • The replacement spring is 0.50mm in thickness while the the original is 0.66mm.  The replacement is 12mm longer so it helps in not making the hammer too weak.

If you don’t want to do anything potentially harmful to the gun, you can stop right here and have the trigger weight lowered by about half a pound.  But if you’re adventurous, proceed to part 2.

Trigger Jobs Part 2 – Hammer Shear polish

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  • The hammer shear is circled in red.  The goal is to round off the edge by a tiny bit, then polish the shear off with sandpaper, followed by the polishing bit.

The following part involves completely disassembling the whole receiver.  You can stop here and see if you’re satisfied with the trigger’s weight.  Otherwise, let’s keep going!

There many steps involved in taking apart the rest of the gun, best to follow every step in the video disassembly guide.  Once you get to the sheer lock, it’s time to smooth out the shear.

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  • I use a combination of file and sandpaper bit, followed by the polishing bit to smooth out the shear.
  • The original shear  lock is very sharp.  I rounded it up a little to make the pull smoother and lower the creep.


  • Before putting everything together, test your trigger by cocking the hammer back and putting pressure forward.  If you grinded off too much shear, the hammer would slip.


  • Putting the coil pin back is just as difficult.  One way that makes things a little easier is to use a vise to clamp the pin in instead.  Just be sure to pad the vise with padding.

The SR22 is an inexpensive gun that might not merit the cost of sending off to a gunsmith.  But lucky enough the workings of the shear is pretty straight forward and easily accessible.  This little gun is a joy to shoot and I hope that many of you can get the very most enjoyment out of it.


3 thoughts on “SR22 trigger job

  1. Hello, is not clear to me how much material should be removed from Trigger Jobs Part 2 – Hammer Shear polish step. Can you send before and after pictures (from the same angles)?

    • The reason why I cannot specify a specific amount is because I didn’t have the foresight to measure the sear before I worked on it. But at the same time, this is a step where you literally should grind, then reassemble and play with the trigger to test, then repeat process. That’s because factory parts all have small variations and no two guns take the same amount of grinding, and the amount of creep to be removed should also depend on the shooter and the application. Good luck!

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