Walther PPQ M2 Trigger Job

** (02/11/15) If you are interested in the PPQ, be sure to check out the PPQ case study on its sear mechanism

I’ve been hearing plenty of nice things about the trigger on the Walther PPQ, and it’s been a long wait for the 5″ version to be back in stock.  The new gun finally arrived today, and the trigger certainly didn’t disappoint.

PPQ’s factory trigger weight is 4.5 pounds, but unlike the 5 pounds trigger on my HK P30, the trigger on the PPQ is so smooth that it felt like a 3 pound trigger, with no increase in trigger weight right before the break, something the P30 and SR22 both couldn’t avoid.

If this is my first gun I would be perfectly happy and be shooting away with the stock trigger. But having done 5 trigger jobs already, I couldn’t help myself but to bring the PPQ’s trigger down to 2.5 pounds like all my other guns.

First I must say that I’m extremely impressed with the PPQ’s internal design.  Maintaining this gun is way easier than any of my other handguns because all the main parts are contained in a “gear box”.  After pushing one spring pin out, the gear box can be pulled out and you have instant access to all the main parts.  Hats off to Walther for this wonderful design.


* All the major components are easily accessible for cleaning just by pulling the gear box out.  Awesome design!

Like any new guns, there was a gritty feel as the trigger travels.  An issue easily solved by firing thousands of shots, or by polishing the parts that come in contact with the frame of the gun

Polishing The Trigger Bar

The trigger bar rides underneath the sear housing assembly.  I’ve colored the the part that requires polishing in silver in the picture below.


Here’s a photo of the trigger bar from the factory.  The part is stamped and you can see the stamp marks which can cause a lot of grittiness.  On the right is the same part after polishing with a fine sanding stone, a rubber polishing bit, then with polishing compound.


DSC04511 DSC04514

Another place to polish is the dimple on the side of the trigger bar, as well as the entire left side of the trigger bar.

DSC04516 DSC04522 DSC04527

Polished out the areas that cause the most friction.  Now the trigger travels smooth as silk.

Polishing The Firing Pin Stop

Since posting this guide 2 years ago, I’ve learned that some PPQ’s suffer from a gritty trigger not from the trigger bar, but from the firing pin stop that is riding too tight against its housing.  I was lucky enough to not have that problem, but I’ll post some pictures on how to remove the firing pin stop pretty soon.

Polishing The Sear

The sear engagement surfaces can be polished to further reduce the trigger weight.  Note that this part is a preference as some people like a smoother break, while some enjoy having more of a wall, or a bit more force before the break.

The engagement surface to polish is pointed below:


Lightening The Trigger

I’ve written a more updated guide on replacing the spring and lightening the trigger.  The guide is below:
PPQ 3.5lb mod

Reducing The Creep

Since first writing this guide I’ve came up with a fully adjustable and reversible method to reducing the creep on the PPQ.  The guide is below:
PPQ Adjustable Creep Conversion


This trigger job will make your PPQ perform unlike any other polymer pistol.  Many members of the Walther forum had made these mods on their PPQ and some are shooting on a competitive level with no failures.  I’m happy to see many getting the most out of their PPQ, and hope you would be amongst them.

Click here for more PPQ related posts


26 thoughts on “Walther PPQ M2 Trigger Job

    • Had over 500 rounds with no issues. The PPQ is inherently more accurate than most of my other polymer pistols so with the light trigger this PPQ is my most accurate polymer pistol. Although I am looking towards increasing the pull to about 3.5lbs as most of my other guns are tuned to that weight, and I plan to have some sort of consistency across the board.

      • I tried a similar mod a while back, what I did was that I cut out a strip from a tin can and folded it to eventually fill the gap right above the trigger. But I immediately noticed that the trigger safety is disabled with such a mod, and I didn’t want that on my PPQ nor do I want anyone else to remove trigger safety. PPQ does not do well on a drop test so anything that can disengage the firing pin block on a drop is very unsafe. You can shave off parts of the trigger safety to make it work, but I didn’t want to make irreversible changes to my PPQ.

        Come to think of it, it isn’t too hard to put a slit in the block to allow the safety to still function. Maybe I’ll try that sometime.

    • Yes I was pretty Dremel happy when I take the gun apart, but the biggest effect of the polishing came from polishing the trigger bar. That smoothed out the gritty action a lot.

  1. Did you do anything to the adjustable trigger bar guide? After following your guide I still had a gritty feel to the trigger pull. I removed the adjustable trigger bar guide and the grittiness went away. I polished the section of the trigger bar that contacts the bar guide and also the area on the bar guide. That smoothed out that gritty feeling. Do you know the purpose of the adjustable trigger bar guide? Is it adjustable in some way?

    • Yeah the first thing I did was I polished the trigger bar that touches the guide also. The bar guide is there because the housing is made of plastic and having it guide the trigger rod would introduce wear too quickly. There isn’t a way to adjust it per say, but there could potentially be guides at different heights, which would in turns make the trigger uptake and reset a tiny little bit shorter I think. Never put much thought into that as the trigger reset is already so good.

  2. I’m curious how the lighter spring affects the reset.
    I would think the reset would be less “forceful” for the lack of a better term.

    • The reset is governed by a torsion spring that isn’t being replaced, so the uptake and reset are still positive, even through the pre-travel is very soft after the mod. It’s fun to switch back and forth just to see the effects.

  3. Lanzer thanks for the excellent analyses and guides. Question: Just got two PPQ M1s and the Home Depot spring kit. However, all the appropriately sized spring types in the kit were too light (and seemingly flimsy) to replace the trigger spring. They were so light that the trigger safety did not consistently disengage–the pressure on the trigger body was less than the trigger safety’s tension. Did you do anything to the replacement spring to make it work better? Would cutting it shorter help? All of my experience is with revolvers and glocks with purpose built replacement springs, so I’m not fluent with modifying/adapting springs. Don’t suppose you have a source for sturdier springs? Thanks!

    • It’s been about a year and I’ve fired about 2000 rounds through it. The lighter spring carries even less force than the original, so it might be a long, long time until the spring give up. Probably way before the recoil spring but only time can tell. As this is a range pistol, reliability isn’t my top concern. Nobody should do this mod on a duty pistol, and this trigger is too light to qualify for action shooting competition anyways.

    • There is only one roll pin that holds the blade in place. It should easily be removed without impacting the gun’s functionality, though I haven’t tried it myself yet. Obviously, if the blade is removed then there’s a chance of accidental discharge if the gun is dropped, or upon an improper draw from holster. I would start by wrapping the trigger with tape just to see how you like the feel before removing the blade itself.

      Lastly, if you feel discomfort from your index finger due to the trigger blade, there is a good possibility that your finger might be too loose after firing, or the position of your finger might be off. That happened to me as I began learning double taps. After I corrected my trigger discipline I no longer had trouble with the trigger blade.

  4. I did this mod to a NEW PPQ M2 40, and it didn’t work for crud. It cost me a new sear assy from Walther. The upper lever would not even sit on the top of the lower. Now after $70 spend to repair, I just did all the polishing and lube, nd it’s back to SWEET again. I have since replaced the upper lever and now have a total assy as a spare, or if anyone needs one after destroying theirs. I will never remove metal from these sear levers again. The gun is a flawless beast. I love it much better than Glocks.

    • Hi Jim,

      I’m sorry to hear about your experience. I’ve just added the warning and further detail about the grinding process. As the PPQ is not a hand crafted gun, the fit and finish will vary from pistol to pistol (much like how only some of us get a gritty trigger), therefore it’s inappropriate for me to mention any dimensions in the first place. The amount of creep I experience could also be different simply based on variance or manufacturing date.

      If it makes you feel any better, I also messed up my first trigger job on a HK P30 and had to spend $45 for a new sear. Chalked that up as my tuition fee. 🙂

  5. Hi lanzer,
    I did the spring mod on my ppq and it has worked flawlessly. Trigger is down to around 3lbs. Used a spring i had laying around, not sure where it came from. My ppq also had very slight grittiness, most people probably wouldn’t notice it, but I did. What I did to fix it was polish that little plunger on the slide that the trigger bar rode on. Forgot what its called, one of the safety’s I think, and and also polished part of the extractor that the little plunger thing comes in contact with, because I noticed wear where they were rubbing. Trigger now is silky smooth. I was wondering if you have done something similar, or have doneany other mods.

    • I’m glad you found a good spring for your mod. I should have put it in more detail, but for the trigger bar, I found every point that it comes in contact with other parts and I polished them. I actually did that before I even fired the first shot, so I never remembered any grittiness. On my second PPQ I haven’t done any polishing and I didn’t notice any grittiness. Although in the forums, the issue with grittiness seem to happen to a minority of owners. Most likely variance in manufacturing. Anyhow, pretty much for any pistol that I own, polishing the trigger group always result in a smoother trigger, so it’s a win-win.

  6. Pingback: PPQ Adjustable Creep Conversion Guide | Fun on the workbench

  7. I am setting up my new Q5 for bullseye. I installed the McMaster spring and polished the trigger bar and am down to 3.6 lb. Very nice shooter now. But would really like to get the trigger down to 2.5. So I bought the Home Depot spring pack and found what I believe is the 2.5 lb spring. I got cold feet installing it because in the process of trimming the looped end I bent the sping loop. Have you found another source for this spring?

    • First of all you can get the trigger down to 3lb when you replace the FPS spring. Amazon sell a lighter version and so does a few other stores online such as Templeton. I purchased some of the lighter springs by mistake and I can send you one if you want, just pay me for shipping.

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