PPQ Adjustable Creep Conversion Guide

PPQ is the most versatile pistol for those who want to customize their pistol at home.  Not only can you customize your trigger pull weight, but you can also adjust the weight of the break.  And now, you can mod to have an adjustable creep as well.  Best of all, we can do this without grinding away any metal.  In this guide I’ll share with you how you can make your PPQ perform even better than the amazing pistol it already is.

Tools needed:
IMG_8435First you’ll need:

  1. set screw (2.5mm in size, 5mm or 0.2″ in length, 3mm also works)
  2. 2.5mm tap (also called the M2.5 x 0.45 tap, or M3 x 0.5 if you’re using 3mm)
  3. drill bit (2mm for M2.5, 2.5mm or #39 drill bit for M3)
  4. hex wrench (1.5mm)

** I used 3mm in my example because I just happen to have a bunch of 3mm set screws lying around

Difficulty: Moderate.  Involves using a drill press and a tap.  However, it’s much safer than many trigger jobs that may create irreversible results

DISCLAIMER: No matter how easy the job is, modifying your firearm involves risks that may result in injuries or death.  It will also void your warranty.  If in doubt, seek help from a professional.

Step 1:

Take apart your sear housing.  For more info on how to do this, refer to my PPQ Trigger Job Guide.

Follow the picture below and drill a hole through the sear housing

IMG_8430 textIMG_8418

You definitely do not want to drill a hole that’s tilted, so please use a drill press.  Do note that the hole is drilled horizontal to the gun.  The front side of the sear housing is slanted, so you will be drilling on a tilted surface.  I suggest drilling a pilot hole first with the drill perpendicular to the surface, or use a piloting bit if available.

Step 2:

Run your tap through the hole.  Keep turning until the tip of your tap reaches the end of the hole but don’t tap all the way through.  You want to purposefully leave the hole really tight at the end so the screw will stay in place when submitted to vibrations.

Step 3:

Screw the set screw in place.  You should feel the screw tightening up a lot near the end, but if the hex wrench starts to bend due to stress, go back to step 2 and tap through a bit more and try again.

Stop when the set screw reaches the inside of the housing.  Here I show the screw sticking out by 0.5mm or so.   Once you reach this depth, unscrew until the set screw is aligned with the wall.  If any plastic is bulging out, you can shave it off with an Xacto knife.

IMG_8427

Step 4:

Calibrations, calibrations, calibrations.  First assemble the sear housing back into the frame.  Start with only a tiny bit of the set screw exposed.  Next, insert an empty magazine into the gun.  Now go through the following:

  1. Tighten the set screw by 1/4 turn
  2. Install the slide
  3. Rack the slide and lock it back with the slide release lever
  4. Hit the slide release lever, allow the slide to slap into battery with force **
  5. Pull the trigger as you feel the amount of creep present
  6. Remove the slide

** do not release the slide by hand. The point here is to exert the maximum amount of force on the frame to test for stability

Just repeat the above sequence until the sear does not engage after hitting the slide release lever, or if you pull the trigger all the way and cannot find the break.  When this happens, it means that the sear is too far in its resting position.  Simply loosen the set screw by 1/4 turn and keep testing at this position 10 more times to make sure that the gun is working properly.

IMG_8431

That’s it!  You’re now the proud owner of a pistol with an adjustable creep.

Results:

With a caliper I measured the creep before and after the mod.  And the results are:

Stock trigger: 1.2mm creep

Modified trigger: 0.45mm creep

The result is about 60% reduction.  I’m very happy with the result and couldn’t wait to test the new trigger.

Range Report:

I tested my mod at the range and pumped 200 rounds into steel with much delight.  Not one single failure.

Haven’t been shooting for a few months but getting 2.5″ groups with this trigger was pretty easy.

IMG_8438

Hope you’ll find this guide useful!  Feel free to contact me if you have any questions regarding the procedure.

 

 

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7 thoughts on “PPQ Adjustable Creep Conversion Guide

    • Hey Kai,
      There are two options available. First is the recoil management systems by BTW and DPM. They’re guide rods with dual springs and provide minimal effect. The real solution is to port the barrel. It requires a good gunsmith and will cost about 150.

      Of course, first you should try a rubber grip, such as the Butler Creek grip.

  1. Hi Lanzer,
    Love your blog. I’ve followed a lot of your instructions on my PPQ and PPS to improve both triggers.

    Just an idle thought, but what possibility do you see with making the PPQ design modular, like the P320? I can see integrating the trigger/sear group into a similar steel subframe like the P320 does, and then you would be able to swap grips, barrels and slides accordingly. Do you ever see Walther going in this direction?

    Best,
    Mark

    • Since the P320 did won the MHS competition earlier this year, other companies might consider following their design philosophy.

      But outside of military, I don’t see versatility being a big draw simply because consumers typically look for a “best configuration scenario” such as carrying a subcompact at a certain weight, or range plinking with a setup for ease and accuracy. Once those requirements are met, setups are not often switched in and out. Enthusiasts enjoy variety and being able to shoot different guns on the spot, and I wouldn’t expect most to enjoy swapping slides at the shooting range.

      It leaves competitors who might want a pistol for different calibers, though I often wonder if the savings of $300 or so would convince shooters to own one and a half pistol versus two pistols.

      I think there’s a good chance that a number of companies might go this route, though I don’t see that many shooters being excited over this trend.

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