PPQ is the most versatile pistol for those who want to customize their pistol at home. Not only can you customize your trigger pull weight, but you can also adjust the weight of the break. And now, you can mod to have an adjustable creep as well. Best of all, we can do this without grinding away any metal. In this guide I’ll share with you how you can make your PPQ perform even better than the amazing pistol it already is.
First you’ll need:
- set screw (2.5mm in size, 5mm or 0.2″ in length, 3mm also works)
- 2.5mm tap (also called the M2.5 x 0.45 tap, or M3 x 0.5 if you’re using 3mm)
- drill bit (2mm for M2.5, 2.5mm or #39 drill bit for M3)
- hex wrench (1.5mm)
** I used 3mm in my example because I just happen to have a bunch of 3mm set screws lying around
Difficulty: Moderate. Involves using a drill press and a tap. However, it’s much safer than many trigger jobs that may create irreversible results
DISCLAIMER: No matter how easy the job is, modifying your firearm involves risks that may result in injuries or death. It will also void your warranty. If in doubt, seek help from a professional.
Take apart your sear housing. For more info on how to do this, refer to my PPQ Trigger Job Guide.
Follow the picture below and drill a hole through the sear housing
You definitely do not want to drill a hole that’s tilted, so please use a drill press. Do note that the hole is drilled horizontal to the gun. The front side of the sear housing is slanted, so you will be drilling on a tilted surface. I suggest drilling a pilot hole first with the drill perpendicular to the surface, or use a piloting bit if available.
Run your tap through the hole. Keep turning until the tip of your tap reaches the end of the hole but don’t tap all the way through. You want to purposefully leave the hole really tight at the end so the screw will stay in place when submitted to vibrations.
Screw the set screw in place. You should feel the screw tightening up a lot near the end, but if the hex wrench starts to bend due to stress, go back to step 2 and tap through a bit more and try again.
Stop when the set screw reaches the inside of the housing. Here I show the screw sticking out by 0.5mm or so. Once you reach this depth, unscrew until the set screw is aligned with the wall. If any plastic is bulging out, you can shave it off with an Xacto knife.
Calibrations, calibrations, calibrations. First assemble the sear housing back into the frame. Start with only a tiny bit of the set screw exposed. Next, insert an empty magazine into the gun. Now go through the following:
- Tighten the set screw by 1/4 turn
- Install the slide
- Rack the slide and lock it back with the slide release lever
- Hit the slide release lever, allow the slide to slap into battery with force **
- Pull the trigger as you feel the amount of creep present
- Remove the slide
** do not release the slide by hand. The point here is to exert the maximum amount of force on the frame to test for stability
Just repeat the above sequence until the sear does not engage after hitting the slide release lever, or if you pull the trigger all the way and cannot find the break. When this happens, it means that the sear is too far in its resting position. Simply loosen the set screw by 1/4 turn and keep testing at this position 10 more times to make sure that the gun is working properly.
That’s it! You’re now the proud owner of a pistol with an adjustable creep.
With a caliper I measured the creep before and after the mod. And the results are:
Stock trigger: 1.2mm creep
Modified trigger: 0.45mm creep
The result is about 60% reduction. I’m very happy with the result and couldn’t wait to test the new trigger.
I tested my mod at the range and pumped 200 rounds into steel with much delight. Not one single failure.
Haven’t been shooting for a few months but getting 2.5″ groups with this trigger was pretty easy.
Hope you’ll find this guide useful! Feel free to contact me if you have any questions regarding the procedure.