PPQ Adjustable Creep Conversion Guide

PPQ is the most versatile pistol for those who want to customize their pistol at home.  Not only can you customize your trigger pull weight, but you can also adjust the weight of the break.  And now, you can mod to have an adjustable creep as well.  Best of all, we can do this without grinding away any metal.  In this guide I’ll share with you how you can make your PPQ perform even better than the amazing pistol it already is.

Tools needed:
IMG_8435First you’ll need:

  1. set screw (2.5mm in size, 5mm or 0.2″ in length, 3mm also works)
  2. 2.5mm tap (also called the M2.5 x 0.45 tap, or M3 x 0.5 if you’re using 3mm)
  3. drill bit (2mm for M2.5, 2.5mm or #39 drill bit for M3)
  4. hex wrench (1.5mm)

** I used 3mm in my example because I just happen to have a bunch of 3mm set screws lying around

Difficulty: Moderate.  Involves using a drill press and a tap.  However, it’s much safer than many trigger jobs that may create irreversible results

DISCLAIMER: No matter how easy the job is, modifying your firearm involves risks that may result in injuries or death.  It will also void your warranty.  If in doubt, seek help from a professional.

Step 1:

Take apart your sear housing.  For more info on how to do this, refer to my PPQ Trigger Job Guide.

Follow the picture below and drill a hole through the sear housing

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You definitely do not want to drill a hole that’s tilted, so please use a drill press.  Do note that the hole is drilled horizontal to the gun.  The front side of the sear housing is slanted, so you will be drilling on a tilted surface.  I suggest drilling a pilot hole first with the drill perpendicular to the surface, or use a piloting bit if available.

Step 2:

Run your tap through the hole.  Keep turning until the tip of your tap reaches the end of the hole but don’t tap all the way through.  You want to purposefully leave the hole really tight at the end so the screw will stay in place when submitted to vibrations.

Step 3:

Screw the set screw in place.  You should feel the screw tightening up a lot near the end, but if the hex wrench starts to bend due to stress, go back to step 2 and tap through a bit more and try again.

Stop when the set screw reaches the inside of the housing.  Here I show the screw sticking out by 0.5mm or so.   Once you reach this depth, unscrew until the set screw is aligned with the wall.  If any plastic is bulging out, you can shave it off with an Xacto knife.

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Step 4:

Calibrations, calibrations, calibrations.  First assemble the sear housing back into the frame.  Start with only a tiny bit of the set screw exposed.  Next, insert an empty magazine into the gun.  Now go through the following:

  1. Tighten the set screw by 1/4 turn
  2. Install the slide
  3. Rack the slide and lock it back with the slide release lever
  4. Hit the slide release lever, allow the slide to slap into battery with force **
  5. Pull the trigger as you feel the amount of creep present
  6. Remove the slide

** do not release the slide by hand. The point here is to exert the maximum amount of force on the frame to test for stability

Just repeat the above sequence until the sear does not engage after hitting the slide release lever, or if you pull the trigger all the way and cannot find the break.  When this happens, it means that the sear is too far in its resting position.  Simply loosen the set screw by 1/4 turn and keep testing at this position 10 more times to make sure that the gun is working properly.

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That’s it!  You’re now the proud owner of a pistol with an adjustable creep.

Results:

With a caliper I measured the creep before and after the mod.  And the results are:

Stock trigger: 1.2mm creep

Modified trigger: 0.45mm creep

The result is about 60% reduction.  I’m very happy with the result and couldn’t wait to test the new trigger.

Range Report:

I tested my mod at the range and pumped 200 rounds into steel with much delight.  Not one single failure.

Haven’t been shooting for a few months but getting 2.5″ groups with this trigger was pretty easy.

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Hope you’ll find this guide useful!  Feel free to contact me if you have any questions regarding the procedure.

 

 

PPQ trigger mod to 3.5 pound

This is for the 9mm and 40 cal models only.  45 ACP model uses different springs.

In my first PPQ trigger job I’ve used a spring from a pack of HomeDepot assorted spring kit, and it yielded a 2.5lb trigger.  The trigger is great for bullseye but is inappropriate for action shooting.  Many had expressed interest in a 3.5lb trigger, so I set out to find a spring that would do exactly that.

Introduction

Here is the spec of the PPQ’s sear extension spring:

  • length: 0.75″ (19mm), 16mm on 45ACP
  • outer diameter: 0.180″ (4.57mm)
  • wire thickness: 0.022″ (0.559mm)

So the goal here is to find something with similar dimension but with a thinner wire thickness.  I’m making the assumption here that the material is music wire.

It’s actually much harder than I thought to buy a spring at the specific size I want.  Most manufactures have a minimum order of 50 to 100 springs, or general component stores don’t have something this small or at the thickness I want.  After an evening of searching I found this place called Sodemann Springs.  (link on the next page)

I ordered a wire thickness of 0.51mm, and with lengths 19mm and 15.75mm, as well as a 0.55 spring that’s 15.75mm long.

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The loop on each end is closed off, so I needed to open one of the ends up to fit into the sear assembly.  You can see that on the top spring shown above.

As it turns out, the 0.51mm spring that’s 19mm did the trick.  It gave me a 3.5lb pull.

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Note: Your mileage may vary as I’ve polished my internals, which might drop the poundage by a little.

And for those who are interested in making this mod, it’s an easy process that takes only minutes.

Parts and Tools

DISCLAIMER: No matter how easy the mod is, any modification which involves adjusting a firearm comes with the potential of compromising the safety of your firearm!  Refrain from modding if you have no prior experience, and seek professional help instead.  Also, any modified firearm should not be used outside of a firing range.

There are now multiple sources available for ordering the springs:

  1. Ebay
  2. McMaster Carr
  3. Sodemann Springs

If you’re on a budget, you can order from Ebay and get a set of springs for $10
Ebay Store Link (3.5lb)
Shipping takes about 10 days.

Mc Master offers a stainless steel spring that is the exact dimension of the factory spring, which is about a pound lighter.  It’ll cost about $16, not bad at all
McMaster Purchasing Link (3.5lb)

Lastly, there’s Sodemann spring who has a great selection of springs.  Unfortunately they are based in Norway.  There’s a minimum order of $20 and shipping is $19.  This place only makes sense if you’re buying a set of springs at different weights.

http://www.sodemann-springs.us/online-shop/search?pid=E01800200750M (3.5lb)
http://www.sodemann-springs.us/online-shop/search?pid=E01800240750M (5lb)
http://www.sodemann-springs.us/online-shop/search?pid=E01800260750M (6lb)

If you have the 45ACP version, here’s the 3.5lb spring
http://www.sodemann-springs.us/online-shop/search?pid=E01800180620S

Thanks to “imanoldfart” on Walther forums, he took the mod a step further and started replacing the firing pin block spring:
http://www.sodemann-springs.us/online-shop/search?pid=C00880100440S 

What this mod does is that it’ll lower the trigger pull force that happen half way during up-take, providing a even smoother trigger pull before hitting the break!

Tools you’ll need:

  • 3mm punch (optional, only if you remove sear block)
  • needle nose plier
  • bolt cutter, wire cutter or dremel with disk grinder
  • tweezers

Step by Step Instructions – Quick Mod

Note that there are two sets of instructions.  This quick mod only involves the slide removal.  If you have trouble removing the extension spring, refer to the second set of instructions.

Step 1 – Remove the slide, and locate the extension spring

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Step 2 – Remove the extension spring with a pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers.  Note that the coil on the front side is wrapped up really well.  Remove the back coil first so you can move the spring around to find the best angle in pulling it out of the sear casing.  In the second picture you can see how I find an angle to help remove the spring.

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Step 3 – Prepare the new spring.  Straighten out the very end of the spring, and then you’ll need to cut the loop end short so you can fit it into the sear assembly housing easier.  Cut with a Dremel or a mini bolt cutter.  Use wire cutters only if there’s no other choice.

Note that music wire is very hard (C41 – 60), so it’ll dent even the best wire cutters (C63-65).   If you have to use a wire cutter, use a cheap, small bolt cutter and not a wire cutter.

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Step 4 – Assemble the new extension spring to the sear block.  It should be easier than removing the spring in comparison.

For those who are comfortable taking things apart and have a 3mm punch handy, here are the instructions for taking the sear block apart.

Step by Step Instructions – Sear Block Removal

Step 1 – Remove the 3mm pin behind the slide lock (if I need to tell you to remove the slide, this guide ain’t for you 🙂

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Step 2 – Slide out the sear assembly housing.  Orient the right side of the pistol facing up, because there is a metal part (trigger bar guide) and would come loose.  Now’s also a good time to clean your sear housing.  (see how easy it is on the PPQ?)

Step 3 – Prepare the new spring.  Straighten out the very end of the spring, and then you’ll need to cut the end short (about 2mm) so you can fit it into the sear assembly housing easier.  Cut with a Dremel or a mini bolt cutter.  Use wire cutters only if there’s no other choice.

Note that music wire is very hard (C41 – 60), so it’ll dent even the best wire cutters (C63-65).   If you have to use a wire cutter, use a cheap, small bolt cutter and not a wire cutter.

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Step 4 – Now you can fit the spring into the sear housing.  It’s going to be a tight fit.  I found it easier to place the spring at a 45 degree angle at the beginning.

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Step 5 – Reassembly.  Fit the housing in part way through, then take your tweezers and slip the spring back into place.

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Hammer the pin back and install the slide and you’re all set.

Testing

It goes without saying but you’ll get to feel the new trigger by dry firing the pistol.  Do this a couple of times, also rack and slam the slide back to battery and make sure the spring will stay in place.  Once you’re comfortable with how the trigger feels, have fun at the range!

The PPQ is really easy to take apart compared to many pistols I dealt with, and all these non invasive mods make the PPQ one of the most flexible pistols out there.  Hope you find this useful!  Have fun shooting!

Homemade Magnetic Quad Magazine Pouch

Recently started shooting steel, after having shot paper targets for 15 years it’s quite a humbling experience to force myself to re-learn a better stance and grip so I can double tap accurately.  I have a long way to go!

One of the equipment needed is a proper magazine pouch as opposed to holding magazines with my jeans pocket.  Of all the magazine pouches out there, I like the magnetic ones that allow you to quickly (or sloppily) return an empty mag instead of dropping it on the floor.  But all competition related gear are very expensive, and I wasn’t ready to spend $40 a pop for those fancy magnetic mag pouch.

Here’s what I ended up buying:

  • Cheap paddle magazine pouch from Ebay ($15)
  • Neodymium magnet from Zoro ($5 each)

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The process is pretty simple. I cut open two sides of the pouch to make an opening, then I drill holes for the magnets to be screwed on with nuts and bolts.  The bolt was too long so I did have to Dremel out the remaining portion.

The magnets are very powerful and actually makes it pretty hard to pull the magazine out.  I ended up putting a piece of cardboard paper before wrapping the magnet with duct tape so I get a good combination of grip and force.

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Here is what the finished prototype looks like.  I think I’m better off mounting the upper magnets even higher.  I’ll use it at the range and actually try it out before making further improvements.

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The PPQ Rattle Explained

There’s been a few discussions about how the Walther PPQ gives off a rattle when you shake the gun, whereas the VP9 and many other guns do not give off a rattle at all, with some concluding that the PPQ is of lesser quality than other handguns such as the VP9.

This impression is somewhat disturbing as I’ve stripped both guns apart completely, and I noticed nothing that would indicate how one pistol is of superior quality in fit and finish than another gun.  In fact, I found the PPQ to be more accurate of a pistol.

So what’s the deal?

To get to the bottom of the issue, let’s first measure the actual frame to slide fit of each pistol, and see if it’s true that the PPQ is more “sloppy”.

VP9 slide to frame fit:

Rail thickness – 0.0700″
Slide groove opening – 0.0750″
Amount of play – 0.0050″

PPQ slide to frame fit:

Rail thickness – 0.0595″
Slide groove opening – 0.0620″
Amount of play – 0.0025″

So mechanically speaking, the PPQ has a tighter slide to frame fit and has less play involved.  Then why would the PPQ rattle?

The answer lies not in the pistol’s fit and finish, but how hard the recoil spring is pushing the slide against the frame when the pistols are in battery.

The first picture shows the position of the markers when the gun is in battery, I put a masking tape on, then cut the tape with a razor blade between the slide and the frame.

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Then I took off the slide lock so that the recoil spring is returned to its neutral position held together by the guide rod:

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Difference in distance between slide unlock and locked positions:

VP9 – 0.105″
PPQ – 0.02″

Having to travel 0.1 inch, the higher compression of the VP9’s slide against the frame means there’s a constant pressure pushing the slide up and away from the frame at all times.  In fact, it takes about 3lbs of force to push or wiggle the slide against the frame.  The PPQ on the other hand, barely applied any force on the frame, making the slide able to wiggle freely.

Does this difference in design determine fit and finish quality?  Obviously not.  It does raise the question of “would a difference in initial compression of the recoil spring make a difference in felt recoil”?  Now that’s a much more interesting question.  Almost everyone talk about how the PPQ has a stronger felt recoil than the VP9, but the bore axis on the PPQ is only about 0.1″ higher than the VP9.

Update: (July, 2016)

Having tried a soft recoil spring on my PPQ, I’ve noticed that there weren’t that much of a difference in recoil.  The fact remains that the PPQ has a stronger flip than the VP9.

But back to the worry over the PPQ rattle.  Conclusion here is that rattle comes from recoil spring placement and strength, not a sign of higher or lower quality on a polymer pistol.  Perhaps what’s more important are factors such as accuracy, trigger group, reset, and other factors that actually determine accuracy and longevity of a pistol.  All these categories combined still outweigh the higher muzzle flip on the PPQ.

1911 Magazine Types and Mod

I currently have 1911 9mm magazines from MetalForm, Dan Wesson, and Mecgar.  Everything worked fine when I was shooting round nose ammo, but the moment I switched to my hollow point ammo, all hell broke loose.  I simply get failure to feed on a full mag, and the problem seem to only happen on the MetalForm and Dan Wesson magazines.

Diagnostics

The problem here is that the ammo “nose dives” as it is being fed.  Normally it isn’t a problem with round nose bullets, but it seems like when I’m shooting with hollow point, the very front of the flat end doesn’t quite clear the bottom of the barrel ramp, causing the ammo to get stuck.

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Types of Magazines

I noticed that the MetalForm magazines raises their front lip to form its own ramp, probably for solving feeding problems with non-ramped barrels.  Which means if I want my Mecgar magazines to work, I’ll need to add a ramp of my own.

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Mod

Time to bust out the old welder and see what I can do.  Took a while for my rusty old hands to make a mess on the magazine’s front lip, but after some grinding and filing, looks like we have ourselves a new ramp on the magazine.

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Winchester WSF win

My training for rapid fire had started, and among learning new stance and proper grip, I’m now burning 200 rounds per hour.  Things get real expensive if I don’t keep reloading!

My pistol of choice during my learning period is my trusty 9mm 1911 running on my 80% TM frame.  I was always unhappy about how I messed up on the barrel to slide fit, and the slide to frame fit also has a bit of play.  Though at the same time I don’t worry about banging up this gun, and its grip is perfect for what I need right now.

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Powder of choice here is the Winchester WSF.  It burns pretty clean, takes less powder than my other favorite (Power Pistol), and is also cheaper per pound.  I just needed a recipe that works, but after a few rounds of testing, I was really surprised how accurate this beater can achieve!

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With all its flaws, I can still keep the group down to 0.9 inch at 25 yards.  One great tip that I learned from others is that you should not only vary the powder weight, but also the COAL when testing out different loads.  Here is a list of the variances that I went through.

Powder Bullet OAL Load Group
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.15 4.9 2
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.145 4.9 3.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.14 4.9 2.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.15 5.1 3
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.145 5.1 3.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.14 5.1 1.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.155 5.2 2.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.15 5.2 2.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.145 5.2 0.9
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.14 5.2 1.6
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.15 5.3 2.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.145 5.3 2.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.14 5.3 3
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.155 5.4 2.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.15 5.4 4
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.145 5.4 4.5
WSF Montana Gold 115 1.14 5.4 2.5

PPQ – 4″ vs 5″, Light vs Heavy Trigger

Recently found that the Speer Lawman is incredibly accurate on my PPQ, so I took both my PPQ’s out to the range yesterday and had some fun with them, and did some completely unfair comparisons. 🙂

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Nobody should be surprised that the 5″ gun can shoot better than the 4″.  One particular note is that it’s easier for my untrained finger to get a flyer when the trigger is heavier, which also shouldn’t be a surprise.

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After 15 shots.  You can see that the 4″ is getting about 2.5″ group omitting that one flyer while the 5″ has a 2″ group with no flyers.  I suspect that the difference would be less if I’m shooting bench.  Afterall the trigger doesn’t affect mechanical accuracy, just let me get away with less discipline. 🙂
IMG_0831What’s interesting is that at 15 yards I can see the target a lot better, and being able to get great accuracy with the 5″ PPQ becomes a cakewalk.  I seemed to have struggled with the 4″, but it might be because my fingers were getting tired.

As many had pointed out already, the inherent accuracy of a 4″ vs 5″ gun is pretty much equal, and it all comes down to how the front sight being further away help with aiming, and I totally agree.  I think the 25 yard results is a much better representation, which is about a 0.5″ gain at 25 yards.

Someday I should compare two guns at the same trigger weight to be more fair. 🙂

Here are all my PPQ related posts – https://lanzerbot.wordpress.com/category/ppq/

Case Study – PPQ VS VP9 Trigger

This blog explores the reasons for the Walther PPQ’s great trigger and explains why PPQ has such a short trigger reset.

walther-ppq-m2-4The Walther PPQ had received great reviews and a keen following as the great successor of the already solid P99 pistol.  I too, am one of the many owners impressed by the PPQ.  Though the flip on this pistol was high, the PPQ was surprisingly accurate, and the trigger easily lived up to the hype.  I opened up the pistol and was very impressed by how elegant its design was, and at the same time, noticed the potential for this pistol to have a light trigger that most hammer fired pistol couldn’t achieve. I thought this was what the new breed of striker fired pistol was all about.

HK-VP9-left

With all the hype behind the VP9, I was happy to be part of the hype and be the owner of such a great looking pistol.  At the range, the VP9 was very soft shooting, and accuracy was there.  What bothered me was an uneven pre-travel, and the take up was much tougher than the pre-travel.  It’s a feeling I get with most hammer fired pistol.

After opening up the VP9 and looking through the VP9’s sear group, I noticed distinct similarities towards VP9’s sear and the internals of other striker fired pistols such as Glocks.  I tried lightening up the VP9’s trigger but quickly realized that I couldn’t do much without having to tune with the sear engagement angles and grind away metal.

The internals of both pistols are vastly different.

Since then I’ve decided to take a few photos to illustrate my findings between the two pistols.  Hope it’ll be useful or interesting for those of you who are curious.

The PPQ pistol

So let’s take things apart and go through the inner workings of both pistols:

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The whole sear group comes off with the removal of one spring pin.  The sear group is actually very simplistic, yet different than most of the typical “hammer/sear” relationship. 

Update – turns out this simple design for a sear housing is patented (https://www.google.com/patents/US7472507)

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Here is the sear responsible for locking the striker. The top arm (more like a hook) of the sear locks the striker in place, but that isn’t the sear’s engagement surface.  Instead, the right arm of the sear holds the sear engagement surface, and a separate lever swings back to release this sear.  This setup is made so that the pivot point of the sear is behind the direction of the striker’s force.  This simple design allows the sear itself to not take the blunt of the force from the striker pin.

Here are some observation on how the PPQ’s sear group works:

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  • With this design, the sear only takes in 1/3 of the striker’s force.
  • The striker spring on the PPQ measured about 7.5lb.
  • The striker’s contact with sear arm is 10mm away from pivot at an angle of 30 degrees
  • This translates to 3.7lb being applied as torque on the sear arm itself (7.5lb x sin(30)), the rest of the force is decompression force handled by the sear’s joint
  • The sear itself is sitting further away from the pivot, giving itself more mechanical advantage hence less force being applied at the engagement area. (10mm/17mm * 3.7lb)
  • We have a striker at 7.5lb but at the sear, only 2.5lb of force is being applied, and assuming a friction coefficient of 0.16 for a lubricated polished steel surface**, the force it takes to move the sear’s lever is about 0.4lb
  • With the trigger arm hitting the sear lever at around 10mm away from the pivot point and the sear engagement surface being at 13mm, it would take 0.6lb of force for the trigger arm to push disengage the sear lever.

** source for info (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/friction-coefficients-d_778.html)

The above observation got to have some mistakes or over-sight as I’m no physics major, but I hope it help illustrate how the general system works, and it’ll help make the comparison with the VP9 sear much easier.

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Another easy way to see how much force is applied to the sear itself is to pull the trigger without the striker.  It takes 4.6lbs to fire my PPQ normally, and with the slide taken off, the trigger return spring and sear return spring contributes 4.0lbs of the trigger pull.  Meaning it takes only 0.6lb to break the sear.

This is the secret sauce to the PPQ’s short trigger reset – it is the only pistol where the trigger has a mechanical disadvantage towards pushing the sear lever.  The result is a short travel on trigger to break & reset the sear with sacrifice to trigger weight.  Other pistols need a mechanical advantage because their sears are so heavy.

Update – Walther holds a patent for this particular design (https://www.google.com/patents/US5701698)

Now on to the VP9

The VP9 requires a little bit more effort to have the sear assembly removed.  Besides the spring pin that holds the sear group in place, you also need to remove the slide release lever, and a spring pin that holds the trigger assembly in place.  Wish it’s a bit more straight forward to maintain.

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Similar to other HK pistols, the VP9’s trigger bar also ride along the bottom edge of a guide rod which is the disengage rod.  It makes the trigger rod move up then down during the up take.  I mention this cause this part seem to add a tiny bit to the trigger weight, and it also causes a uneven trigger pull, which is not preferred for me as a shooter.

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Now for the sear assembly.  

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Here we have an L shaped arm whose function is to move the sear by transferring the horizontal force of the trigger arm to a downward force for rotating the sear downward.

The sear itself is a more common design that resembles a Glock pistol.  Primarily the sear’s pivot point is in front of the striker’s sear, and the sear engages head to head with the striker directly.  Other striker fire pistols including M&P Shield, LC9s, P320, XDM, SD9, Sigma, all carry the same principle.

Here are the observation on how VP9’s sear works:

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  • The sear is taking in 9+lb of force even though the striker is pushing at 7.8lb
  • The striker spring on the VP9 measured at around 7.8lb.
  • The striker’s contact with the sear is the engagement surface itself.  Therefore there are no mechanical advantage in play to reduce the friction placed on the sear’s engagement surface.
  • The force needed to break the sear is the friction coefficient times the angular force from the striker, plus the force needed to push the striker backwards because the sear is sitting 11 degrees above the sear’s pivot point.
  • Angular force is 7.8 x cos(11.7) = 7.63
  • Striker’s push against rotation of sear is 7.8 x sin(11.7) = 1.54
  • The total force on the sear’s engagement surface is 9.17lb, and if we assume a friction coefficient of 0.16 results in 1.42lb of rotational force required to break this sear.
  • In the illustration above I raised the friction coefficient to 0.17, and it still didn’t result in the actual trigger pull force on the VP9.  Probably the angle of the sear engagement surface causes more friction than what I calculated.

This whole design strikes me as someone who wish to derive a hammer firing pistol’s design through a striker system.  The funny thing is, newer HK hammer firing pistols such as the P30 actually breaks that tradition and taking the sear engagement surface away from the hammer.  Unless Walther holds a patent with how their sear works (update: they do), it’s odd that HK would go with this design.

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It takes 1.7lb from the trigger to break the sear on the VP9.  My VP9’s trigger is at 4.7lb, while without the slide, the trigger is at 3lb.  But you get the idea.  This setup of having a sear with such heavy force against it means you must be a wizard as a gunsmith to grind and polish your way to having a light trigger.   

Glock pistols actually have a trigger connector which allows trigger weight to be adjusted, though at the expense of increasing the creep because that design creates a mechanical advantage from the trigger bar directly.

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The PPQ on the other hand, allows for adjustments to trigger weight and creep independently.  Read this article on how to add creep adjustment on your PPQ.

To adjust the trigger pull weight requires one simple spring change. Both mods are easy to perform and reversible.  Upon realizing the gun’s brilliant design, and also it’s impressive accuracy, I purchased a second PPQ in with the M1 frame.

At the end of the day, I do love my VP9 because it’s still the best looking polymer in my opinion, and the ergonomics is terrific, while being one of the softest shooting polymers I have.  I have plenty of guns whose accuracy doesn’t come close to the VP9.  HK did a good job with introducing the striker fired VP9, and I hope that they would rethink their sear design in later models.  As it stands, the PPQ’s sear group is by far more adjustable and potentially longer lasting.  I have yet found another pistol that shares the PPQ’s sear design.

Here’s a link to other PPQ related posts – https://lanzerbot.wordpress.com/category/ppq/

Savage Axis Easy Trigger Job

223The trigger mechanism on the Savage Axis is simple and effective.  The sear is part of the trigger piece and one spring govern most of the trigger’s weight.

The trigger job is another quick and simple fix, first step was to polish out the sear.  On top of polishing, I also grind off some of the sear on the trigger to lower the creep.

** IMPORTANT NOTE ** without the accu-trigger mechanism, the Axis is technically unsafe for a light trigger.  Without a trigger safety, the rifle is prone to mis-fires if the gun is dropped.  Do not modify the trigger if this gun is to be used for hunting.

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Next was to replace the trigger return spring.  Again, the assorted spring pack from Home Depot came in handy, providing a lighter spring for the 5th time.
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The end result is a trigger that weight 2lbs.  I had to strengthen the weight to 2.5lbs as a hard slap on the bolt would set off the sear.  At 2.5 lbs I can slap the bolt down as hard as I can without any mis-fires.  Though the rifle is still prone to mis-fires if dropped.IMG_0554
RANGE REPORT
IMG_0610The gun shoots great, and with cheap PMC X-Tac ammo I was getting around 2″ groups at 100 yards.  Then I put on my reloads with AR-COMP and Sierra 69gr GTHP, and I was getting ridiculous accuracy!  Those were reloads I made for my AR-15, and I was totally taken by surprise on how accurate this load is for a gun with a completely different barrel length and twist rate.

Ruger MK3 trigger click sound and pre-travel problems fix

Being able to eliminate pre-travel for the MK3 was terrific, but as soon as I took it out at the range, I noticed that half the time the trigger wouldn’t reset.  The remedy was to either push the trigger in reverse direction and wiggle the trigger to engage the reset, or simply tune the trigger reset way back, leaving a large pre-travel again.

After many hours of inspection and assembly/disassembly, I start to notice that there is this click on the trigger’s pre-travel that only happens if I lean the trigger towards the left.  I also noticed that the sear had no problem resetting, it was the trigger disconnect bar that’s causing me problems.  The trigger disconnect wasn’t rising to the top to engage the sear.  Something was getting it stuck.

In previous attempts to lower trigger pull weight, I also took note that if the trigger’s plunger spring is installed incorrectly, you would hear a slight click noise coming from the plunger spring also.  In this case we’re definitely looking at something else.

As it turns out, the culprit was the magazine disconnect spring.  It was sticking out just enough to rub against the trigger disconnector.  Not only would it cause a clicking sound, but it was also causing some friction on the trigger disconnector.

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The remedy was a simple matter of clamping down the spring’s hook so it doesn’t stick out, and as a precaution I also grinded off the corner, but that shouldn’t be necessary.

DSC05609Now visually inspect the hammer assembly, and the magazine disconnect spring should no longer be sticking out.

DSC05610So that’s it!  Trigger now get positive reset shot after shot, and reliability should be improved as unnecessary friction is reduced.